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PostPosted: Dec Sat 23, 2006 12:43 am 
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Location: Fayetteville NC
Has anyone purchased one of front ends ( 70 Nova) from Smith Race Craft wondering what the price would be.
I already have the Wilwood disk brakes.
Thinking about one before redoing my cage, upgrading to a 10 point 4130.
Just trying to weight the whole cost, benifits ect...
Car will be a while in bulid up so just trying to lay a plan out.
It is a tube set-up tried to copy and paste a pic but could not figure it out, LOL.
Can be used with stock a arms or after market ones same with the spindles.
70 Nova Ladder bar car, mini tubbed, small tire 10.5 car, all steel except hood. BBC in the 540-565 CID, 4.10 gear 9inch spool 33 spline moser axels.
Street Car sees about 1000 miles a year, looking to build 9.90 car BBC pump gas motor, with a small shot of NOS (150-250).
TY


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PostPosted: Dec Sat 23, 2006 10:36 am 
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rodneylenton wrote:
Has anyone purchased one of front ends ( 70 Nova) from Smith Race Craft wondering what the price would be.
I already have the Wilwood disk brakes.
Thinking about one before redoing my cage, upgrading to a 10 point 4130.
Just trying to weight the whole cost, benifits ect...
Car will be a while in bulid up so just trying to lay a plan out.
It is a tube set-up tried to copy and paste a pic but could not figure it out, LOL.
Can be used with stock a arms or after market ones same with the spindles.
70 Nova Ladder bar car, mini tubbed, small tire 10.5 car, all steel except hood. BBC in the 540-565 CID, 4.10 gear 9inch spool 33 spline moser axels.
Street Car sees about 1000 miles a year, looking to build 9.90 car BBC pump gas motor, with a small shot of NOS (150-250).
TY
9.90 being your goal with that big of an engine save the money youd spend on that frame set up get yourself a set of cfe bmf heads run about 10.5-1 compresson and the proper camshaft and you should be able to attain your goal on motor alone. I very much like the frame setup your speaking of but unless your being very weight concious the moneys better of spent elsewhere...............hope this helps Glenn

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PostPosted: Dec Sat 23, 2006 10:44 am 
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I agree with Glenn.. Allot of money for the bang....

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PostPosted: Dec Sun 24, 2006 12:13 pm 
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Thank-you for the advise / was alittle conserned with the almost 40+ subframe being safe.
Since the car will be going back to the chassis shop for cage work, I have noticed a quite a few Nova's with Big BBC 540+ the crossmember has been cut and replaced with tubing. I am assuming this is to make oil pan / header room. Is this a help??
Now on front suspension, tubular upper and lowers a-arms / rack and pinion set ups.
Really have not heard any negatives on such up grades, besides they can get a little pricey, TRZ and others such seem to have good kits.
I guess my thinking is trying to get the suspension set up (and safe)the best I can, all the HP and Torque will do no go if I can't plant it.
And to be honest I am pretty far behind on th echassis tuning learning curve, LOL and good publication that could help??
TY for any help, next comes the motor delema, LOL


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PostPosted: Dec Sun 24, 2006 1:06 pm 
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If you run a motor and mid plate I wouldn't worry about the stock stuff not carrying the load. If the mid plate is not securly mounted fore-aft you are going to need a fore-aft motor limiter. I run a 632 with 300hp shot of spray with a stock front end. My front is converted to front steer rack setup with TRZ/ Smith Race Craft a-arm setup. I am told that Smith Race Craft cuts all the parts for TRZ. Due to both front tires blowing out earlier this season I have replaced my lower TRZ tubular a-arms with Smith Race Craft with no problems. SO I now have TRZ uppers with Smith lowers. I have completely cut out the most rearward bigger cross member all the way to where the lower a-arms bolt up and the boxed the section on the inboard side. No problems making 1600 hp and a big tire. I did leave the front crosss member as is. This is definately nice. As far as a good chassis book???? Anybody else??? I do have a copy of Door Slammers the Chassis book by Dave Morgan.


Motor????

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PostPosted: Dec Tue 26, 2006 11:01 am 
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I agree with Kevin and Glen, however to answer your question on the cost, I called Smith and for the entire front end set up it cost 7,500.00

Now that everything needed to drop you engine and trans in which includes the engine & mid plate, frame, control arms, rack n pinion, steering, front suspension, brakes etc.

Also if you are thinkng about doing any Street Car racing I'm not sure what class you would fall into if any at all with the exception of pro street.

Morgan has the best book that I know of that deals with the entire bumper to bumper operation and set up of a drag car.

Besides I know of 3 Nova's and 2 Camaro's that are running Top Stock and running 9.20 - 9.30 with completely stock bodied X & F bodies

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PostPosted: Dec Tue 26, 2006 11:17 am 
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Well looks like I will just go with the upper and lower A-arms, and rack and pinion conversion.
The motor is a few years away due to my last one coming apart and taking all but the intake with it, LOL (truely an ugly site)
I personnaly felt that a big inch pump gas motor will be the way to go, as of right now the car would be raced in specific class. And I would get more drive time out of it, as my wife says, LOL
Besides their fun to to drive every now and than.
Alot of good companies have big inch motors for sale, just looking right now. Like to get chassis and suspension done first, just like everyone else one thing at time, kids and morgage can limit car part every now and than, LOL
Than-you for all the continuing help.


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PostPosted: Dec Tue 26, 2006 11:27 am 
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Correction, NOT raced in any certain class,


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PostPosted: Dec Tue 26, 2006 11:58 am 
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How big will you be looking for????

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PostPosted: Dec Tue 26, 2006 6:20 pm 
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Well have seen alot of 540's and a few 555-565, along with a Schafrioff 589 pump gas motor in their UltraStreet Series, yes there is a 632 but OUCH $$$, LOL.
Some companies alittle more $$ than others.
Sorry to say I just don't have pieces to put one together, and I never know when Uncle Sam may say it is time to move, LOL
Like I said motor is realistically probably about 2 years away. But hey "No Replacement for Displacement", LOL that is unless you give it a little spray.
I really appriciate forums like this, I am no mechanical moron, but yet there is just so much knowledge out there from people who have tried certain combo's on what and what does not work well.
I think I recognize afew of the names from other forums.
bbnova or anyone else, could when you can send me a few pics of the frame work you did up front, that was mentioned in an earlier post
TY


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